Tech Tip of the Month
Maybe that should be "Anti-Tip" of the Month as I relate how an intended time-saver increased effort and reduced quality. The photo shows the wrist pins for the DH Cirrus Mk I. These are 0.670" lengths of 5/32" diameter drill rod (0.156"). As they are of the "fully-floating" type, the ends need some treatment to prevent them damaging the cylinder liner. The Zimmerman plans (and the SIC CAD redraw) show two options. One is to apply blobs of high-temperature silver solder to the ends, then shape it to a lightly domed section. The other is to fit brass pads and shape them. I chose the latter option, which is a common design technique, and one I've often used in the past.
The pads are turned like little rivets with 1/16" shanks. The pin is drilled for these, sometimes all the way through, but in this case, simply a blind hole about 3/32" deep. Normally I'd fit the pads with an anaerobic adhesive like Locktite. From past experience, I know that the pads need clamping pressure applied until the adhesive cures because the assembly behaves like a little air-shock-strut where the thick adhesive acts like oil, preventing escape of the trapped air which tends to push the pad out. So the whole process of cleaning oil from the fingers and cutting fluid out of the holes and off the pad shanks, applying the glue with a toothpick, keeping your fingers off the clean surface, then clamping up the whole thing as it dries is rather, shall we say, tedious? Much easier to make the pins a force fit and avoid all the hassle.
How much of a force fit? Oh, a thou or so, who knows? The 1/16" drill is not going to produce a precise 0.0625" hole anyway, so I made all the pads to a cross-slide reading that produced a satisfying fit in the test object. My drill rod stock was a very tight fit in the holes produced by my relatively new 5/32" reamer, so prior to this, all pins had been polished to a close sliding fit in the holes reamed in the pistons and rods using the time-honoured 600 grit glass paper, oil, and a steel rule. This was not unexpected, but what I found next was!
Think about it. The metal can't go away, it can only go somewhere else. Either the shank of the brass pin is going to get longer and extrude into the hole in the wrist pin, or the diameter of the wrist pin is going to expand locally. Maybe the length of the brass pad shank did increase a bit, but as none of my wrist pins would fit into the pistons and rods anymore, we can certainly say the wrist pins got bigger. Measurement with a digital very-near calliper indicated the ends of the pins to be between 0.0005" and 0.001" larger than the middle. As the precision of electronic callipers of this type is only 0.0005", the problem could be even worse. Another hour of work with the 600 grit paper and steel rule got the pins fitting again. Perhaps they are even circular, cylindrical, and regular, but I doubt it. It would probably have been a better idea to scrap them and make new ones.
I've never read of this effect before in all my library of model engineering texts and magazines. The subject of "fits" in general is covered in good reference texts such as Machinery's Handbook, and Tubal Cain's Model Engineer's Handbook. Both contain tables for the various types of fit, but nothing about any side effects.
According to Machinery's Handbook, 25th Edition, Force Fits are annotated on drawings with the ANSI symbol "FN" and are categorized FN 1 through FN 3. The higher the number, the greater the interference. The reference tables indicate that for hole diameters of 0-0.12", the interference will vary from maximums of 0.0005" for a FN 1 (light drive fit), to 0.00085" for a FN 3 heavy drive fit. Even higher up the interference fit chain are the FN4 and FN5 "shrink fit" categories that require heating (or chilling) of the parts for assembly.
The Model Engineer's Handbook has less information, but is better suited to the sizes we generally work at (as is to be expected). It offers a table of fits which is almost relevant to the problem. This is reproduced in part below: